The 20th arrondissement of Paris is a neighbourhood with a thousand faces, at once working-class, artistic and gourmet. From the shaded paths of Père-Lachaise cemetery to the breathtaking panoramas of Parc de Belleville, through the picturesque lanes of La Campagne à Paris and the delicious tables along Rue d'Avron, the 20th is brimming with treasures to discover. Whether you are a long-time resident or a curious visitor, this comprehensive guide takes you on a journey through everything the 20th arrondissement has to offer: culture, gastronomy, walks, nightlife and family outings. The 20th is authentic Paris, off the tourist trail, but overflowing with charm and surprises.
Père-Lachaise: The World's Most Famous Cemetery
It is impossible to talk about the 20th arrondissement without mentioning Père-Lachaise cemetery, the largest green space in the arrondissement and one of the most visited sites in Paris. Founded in 1804, this 44-hectare cemetery is a true open-air museum, where illustrious figures such as Jim Morrison, Édith Piaf, Oscar Wilde, Frédéric Chopin, Marcel Proust, Molière and Honoré de Balzac rest. Beyond its historical and memorial significance, Père-Lachaise is an exceptional place for a walk. Its pathways bordered by centuries-old trees, its tombs sculpted with remarkable artistic precision and its peaceful atmosphere make it a haven of serenity in the heart of the city. Architecture enthusiasts will appreciate the diversity of funerary styles, from neoclassical to Gothic and Art Deco. The cemetery regularly organises themed guided tours that reveal the fascinating stories of the personalities who rest there. Allow at least two hours for a complete visit, and do not hesitate to get lost in the secondary pathways, away from the most famous graves, to discover surprising funerary monuments and unsuspected pockets of greenery. The main entrance is on Boulevard de Ménilmontant, accessible via the Père-Lachaise metro station (lines 2 and 3).
Belleville and Parc de Belleville: Panoramic Views over Paris
The Belleville neighbourhood, situated in the north of the 20th arrondissement, is one of the most dynamic and cosmopolitan areas of Paris. A former village annexed to the capital in 1860, Belleville has retained a strong identity, marked by the cultural diversity of its inhabitants and a thriving artistic scene. Parc de Belleville, perched on the heights of the arrondissement, offers one of the finest panoramas of Paris. From its upper terrace at 108 metres altitude, the view stretches from the Eiffel Tower to the Sacré-Cœur, taking in Notre-Dame and Tour Montparnasse. The park itself is arranged in successive terraces with themed gardens, playgrounds, a vineyard and even an artificial waterfall. It is a popular meeting spot for families and nature lovers in the city. The neighbourhood surrounding the park is packed with art galleries, artist studios and alternative cultural venues that make Belleville a melting pot of contemporary creation. Rue Dénoyez, famous for its walls covered in street art, is an essential stop for urban art enthusiasts. Boulevard de Belleville hosts a popular market on Tuesday and Friday mornings, where flavours from around the world mingle in an authentically Parisian atmosphere. The area's restaurants reflect this diversity with Asian, North African, Turkish and French cuisines blending harmoniously.
La Campagne à Paris: A Village in the Heart of the City
La Campagne à Paris is arguably one of the best-kept secrets of the 20th arrondissement. This unusual residential neighbourhood, located between Rue Irénée Blanc, Rue Jules Siegfried and Rue du Capitaine Ferber, looks more like a provincial village than a Parisian district. Built in the early 20th century as part of a workers' housing project, the small individual houses with gardens of La Campagne à Paris create an unexpectedly rural atmosphere. Cobbled streets, flower-covered facades, wisteria climbing along walls and birdsong transport the walker far from the capital's bustle. It is an ideal spot for a romantic stroll or a photography walk. The area is accessible on foot from the Porte de Bagnolet or Saint-Fargeau metro stations. After wandering through these picturesque lanes, continue your walk to the Regard Saint-Martin, one of the remnants of the old Belleville aqueduct dating from the 12th century, or to the Belleville reservoir, a little-known green space overlooking the neighbourhood. The contrast between the surrounding urbanity and the bucolic calm of La Campagne à Paris makes for a unique experience, particularly appreciated at weekends when Parisians come here to recharge.
Restaurants, Bars and Nightlife in the 20th
The 20th arrondissement has become over the years a first-rate gastronomic and nightlife destination in Paris. The arrondissement's culinary scene is as diverse as its inhabitants, offering a range of cuisines and atmospheres for all tastes and budgets. Among the must-visit addresses, Café Juliette at 1 Rue d'Avron stands out for its 100% homemade cuisine and warm Parisian brasserie atmosphere. Open 7 days a week from 8am to 1am, it is the ideal place for a gourmet breakfast, an afterwork with friends or a romantic dinner. Its plant-filled terrace is one of the most pleasant in the area, and its weekend brunch at 28 euros attracts food lovers from across the Right Bank. Rue d'Avron and its surroundings are home to many quality addresses: neighbourhood bistros, Italian, Japanese, Lebanese and Thai restaurants. Around Ménilmontant and Rue Oberkampf, cocktail bars and natural wine bars enliven Parisian evenings. Belleville's bars offer a more relaxed and alternative atmosphere, with jazz concerts, DJ nights and pop-up exhibitions. For craft beer enthusiasts, several microbreweries have opened in the 20th, offering local beers to enjoy on site or take away. The nightlife in the 20th is authentic and accessible, far from the overrated venues in tourist areas.
Walks, Culture and Family Outings in the 20th
The 20th arrondissement offers a wealth of activities for families and culture enthusiasts. There is no shortage of green spaces: besides Père-Lachaise and Parc de Belleville, the Square de la Réunion, Jardin Casque-d'Or and Parc de la Mare provide playgrounds and lawns for Sunday picnics. La Flèche d'Or, a former station on the Petite Ceinture railway converted into a performance venue, programmes concerts and cultural events throughout the year. The area also has independent theatres, neighbourhood cinemas and municipal libraries that organise activities for all ages. Street art enthusiasts will find plenty to enjoy in the streets of the 20th, particularly around Rue Dénoyez in Belleville and along the Petite Ceinture, where artists from around the world come to leave their mark on the walls. The Porte de Montreuil flea market, open on Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays, is an ideal hunting ground for bargain seekers looking for vintage clothing, second-hand books and unusual objects. For sports enthusiasts, the 20th arrondissement's green corridor, a former railway line converted into a walkway, offers a pleasant route for jogging and walking, connecting the Charonne neighbourhood to Porte de Vincennes through gardens and landscaped areas. At weekends, the neighbourhood comes alive with farmers' markets, local brocantes and community events that punctuate local life.
The 20th: Authentic Paris
The 20th arrondissement of Paris is much more than a simple residential neighbourhood: it is a living, creative and gourmet territory that deserves to be explored in depth. From Père-Lachaise to Belleville, from La Campagne à Paris to Rue d'Avron, every street corner holds a discovery. Whether you are looking for a restaurant for a terrace dinner, a cultural walk, a family outing or a lively afterwork, the 20th has everything to win you over. And for a gourmet break at the heart of your neighbourhood exploration, Café Juliette welcomes you at 1 Rue d'Avron with its homemade cuisine, terrace and warm atmosphere.
Discover the 20th from Café Juliette
Take a gourmet break in the heart of the 20th arrondissement. Homemade cuisine, terrace, cocktails. Open 7/7 from 8am to 1am.
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